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Thank you for your time and effort and I will appreciate the information.
Pubrat
Answer:Hi Pubrat,
You game is usually referred to as a "generic" in that it is not related to a T.V. show or movie. Never the less, it is one of the few classic generic games. Your version includes metal gun,knife and candlestick and would sell for $40 in its sealed, Mint condition.
The 1949 original sells in the $50-65 range in Mint condition.
Short and sweet,
Elle
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Subject: Enid Collins "Money to Burn" decorated "Box Bag" I have a wooden purse that I need a little help with. The purse is approximately 8" (not including the curving handle) ,10" long and 3" from front to back. The front has a lacquer covered Confederate bill in the center and other coins around it. It has hinges at the bottom and opens to reveal a small round mirror along with "Collins of Texas" in what appears to be hand written script. It's a great purse but I was wondering if you knew anything else about it and and approximate value in excellent condition? Tell everyone to keep up the great work on the site!, Enid started "Collins of Texas" in the late 50's and continued to design and manufacture purses in various forms until the early 70's when Tandy leather purchased the company and continued to make certain styles with the "Collins of Texas" signature. Earlier Enid bags have the addition of the "EC" mark on the outside or inside of the bag. Bags are generally valued by age and design and there is usually little difference for most bags regardless of having the "EC" of not, though there are exceptions. In other words, people who collect or by Collins bags buy ALL Collins bags. Your bag is usually called a "Box Bag" and other designs include the "Linen Bag" and "Sack Bag". In excellent condition you can expect to see you bag in shops for $100-$125 and possibly more as this design is unusual. Thanks for all the great comments, I'll pass them along, Choose another question by subject Choose another question by Date Posted Shop at Funk & Junk Collectibles and Vintage Clothing
Subject: Transformers, new merchandise? Do you know if anyone makes anything (blanket, sheets, pillows, or just the printed fabric)? Jamie I took a moment to check with the Funk & Junk® inventory folks and you will be happy to know that there are a pair of curtains currently posted on the site. If you search for "transformers" you will pull up the curtains and other Transformers products. Additionally I was told that someone will contact you shortly as it was believed that a full sheet set with pillow cases is floating around somewhere in the Warehouse. I'm told that sometimes it takes a couple of days to track stuff down so they would appreciate your patience. Hope I helped, Choose another question by subject Choose another question by Date Posted Shop at Funk & Junk Collectibles and Vintage Clothing
Subject: Levi "Trucker's jacket" Please could you help me with regard to a Levi Strauss & Co. denim jacket. My dad paid £18 (roughly $25) back in 1967 the jacket has only been worn a couple of times and appears to be in immaculate condition. There is a number on the label at the nape of the neck on the inside( 70505.0217 ) it is a size 40, has two breast pockets, 2 adjustable tabs on the side 1 either side and it is blue by colour it also has orange/yellowish stitching throughout on the seems. He told me that he read our national newspaper (Daily Mail) about an article about denim collectors in London who valued a jacket fitting a similar description, they valued the example at about £2500 8 - 9 years ago and was interested in how much it may have appreciated over this time. Thank you for your time and keep up the great site, The 70505 series were last of the 60/70's 2 pocket jacket Levi made and are called "Trucker's jackets" by those in the business. You don't mention the Red pocket tab which is a key indicator for age but in 1967 your Red tab should have a capital "E" (all capitals actually but we refer to pre-1971 jackets as "Big E"). Even 10 years ago, when the market was full of Japanese buyers notorious not only for sparking more than one vintage market but also paying the highest prices, almost $4000 was not for a jacket like yours. I think you will find that there were significant details that differ from your jacket and the one mentioned in the newspaper and predated yours considerably. Most deep Indigo dyed (little or no fade in dye) later 2 pocket jackets sell anywhere from $125 to $200. Your size is a good size for sellability. Levi has recently reproduced these jackets. Hat's off to Levi for not only redoing the jackets but for also clearly marking them so no confusion exists between the newer and vintage jackets. This not only keeps the vintage market alive but also keeps the excitement within the brand. Levi is one of the few companies out there that really embrace their history while creating new styles with real flare. Thanks, Choose another question by subject Choose another question by Date Posted Shop at Funk & Junk Collectibles and Vintage Clothing
Subject: Snoopy planter Thanks so much for your help!, In like new condition, as it appears in your picture, your planter would sell for $18-22. Thanks for the picture!, Choose another question by subject Choose another question by Date Posted Shop at Funk & Junk Collectibles and Vintage Clothing
Subject: Fonzie child's motorcycle ride-on toy I have had it ever since 1977. I did play with it, but it is in very good condition. From what I understand it is extremely rare and very few were made. It even has the original "AAAAAY" decals on the sides of the seat. I know there are a lot of Happy Days, Ron Howard, and Henry Winkler fans out there. What do you think the value would be? Vital However, these items can often times be difficult to sell due to their size combined with a relatively narrow buyer base. Certainly Happy Days collectors would be interested as well as general T.V. show memorabilia collectors but this list gets slimmed down when you eliminate those in small apartments, etc.. Having said that, buyers who can't live without it should expect to pay $75-95. Choose another question by subject Choose another question by Date Posted
Question:Hi Elle!,
First, I love your feature and the Funk & Junk site. The new book review feature has got me hooked too and I'm a regular visitor (yes, and customer!) to both features.
Tess
Answer:Hi Tess,
You have one hot collectible there and I'm very familiar with the Collins name, more specifically Enid Collins, purses.
Elle
Question:I have been looking for a bedding set from the 80's cartoon series "Transformers" for my boys. I've had no luck.
Answer:Hi Jamie!,
Transformers do indeed look like they are making a comeback as a new series is currently running on the cartoon network. I have not seen any new household items in the stores (though admittedly I rarely get to "new" retail stores!) yet. I would suggest that even if new items are issued both the quality and design will be inferior to the older images and construction so your search for older items is well founded. I say this mostly because I have never seen anything old/collectible redone properly let alone better than its predecessors.
Elle
Question:Hello there.
Martin
Answer:Hi Martin!,
Pictures would help but provided your information is accurate here goes..
Elle
Question:Hi,
I have a Snoopy planter and am seeking a value for this item. It is approx. 3 1/2" tall and 4" diameter. The enclosed picture shows the planter and its bottom imprint. I have been unable to locate another like this in just a casual search online. I am not sure how old the item is, but have noted that most carry more than the one copyright date of 1958. ![[Snoopy planter]](../ellespage/ellepicts/snoopyplntr.jpg)
Click for larger picture
Splash
Answer:Hi Splash,
You have a good start simply realizing that many/most Peanut items carry original copyright dates rather than dates that indicate manufacture. Your planter is from the 1970's and your paper "Made in Japan" label is another clue for dating. Could be late 60's but judging by the design and Snoopy image I would say 70's.
Elle
Question:I have a ride on toy, made in 1977 by Hedstrom. It is "The Fonz" cycle from Happy Days. It is a "big wheel" type toy.
Answer:Hi Vital,
In the condition you mention I would certainly buy into using the word scarce. Though not out of the question, I hesitate to use such a strong (and often overused) term as rare and I believe scarce is more appropriate based almost solely on the numbers that made it through the often destructive hands of the children lucky enough to get them. I can't confirm the number of them made but simply because of the use/abuse of such an item, survivability is limited and, therefore, finding examples in decent condition is difficult at best.
![[Kruger Davy lunch box 1]](../ellespage/ellepicts/krugerdavylb1.jpg) Click for larger picture | ![[Kruger Davy lunch box 1]](../ellespage/ellepicts/krugerdavylb2.jpg) Click for larger picture | ![[Kruger Davy lunch box 1]](../ellespage/ellepicts/krugerdavylb3.jpg) Click for larger picture | ![[Kruger Davy lunch box 1]](../ellespage/ellepicts/krugerdavylb4.jpg) Click for larger picture |
Thanks for your time..
Bree
Answer:Hi Bree!,
Your certainly do have what I would easily call a rare box and the condition looks impeccable. I don't think the value is in the thousands but read on.
Before I get too far, however, I want to mention that requests for items that are ready to post for sale or already out there for sale may not get answered in a timely enough fashion for the seller so be aware that questions are chosen by a number of criteria and urgency of the request is usually not a factor to be fair to everyone. Having said that, your question is fairly recent and may, coincidentally, be fast enough for you to use the information on Ebay. The reason for that is simple, I have been immediately rejecting approximately 50% of my requests for reasons I have outlined too many times to count and these common reasons for rejection are always posted (one link is right on the submission form!) so the submitters have no one to blame but themselves. Sorry, but I have to bring this up from time to time. While I'm at it, how about more than a single line? Make your question a complete thought that would interest a reader and it makes my job a little easier.
Back to your gem. I can't say for certain without seeing the box in person if it is real or not but I am not aware of a reproduction. Close examination of the lithograph will give some clues and pictures should be sharp with little or no blur. Also, reproduction boxes tend to be smaller than the originals so measurements will help too.
Given that your box is original, it was manufactured in 1955. No worries, it never came with a thermos. In my experience, any "book value" I've seen has really done justice to sales/auctions I have witnessed in the past. The reason for the discrepancy is probably the relative (to other boxes) pricing in these guides when they don't have their hands on real data. Though it is a sound enough method of estimation, too often a rare item such as this brings the super collectors out of the wood work. If time is of the essence, then an auction is probably your best method of sale. I actually don't believe that Ebay is the best auction venue as things have very much levelized and Ebay is now an auction like many other both live and on the Internet. There are a number of West coast based toy, etc. auction houses that are long established and may produce the best results for an item of this type. Direct sale may take longer but with a little advertising you could realize a larger profit.
As I mentioned, pricing is difficult. Most current guides place the value in the $475-$600 range. My experiences (and gut) tell me that the retail value is considerably more and I would say $1000 is more realistic. At auction I would still expect it to break the retail to auction price rules of thumb and I would think your would get about $800 if just a couple of hard core collector's showed up. Could it get to a couple of thousand? Stranger things have happened and if just two people want it badly enough often times the sky is the limit.
Good luck with the sale!
Elle
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Subject: Character glasses, can they kill you!!! I am wondering if there is any concerns that I should have about these glasses ?? for example Lead??? Please let me know! Thanks so much & I enjoy the website!!, First my normal caveat in a situation like this that I'm not a doctor nor have I performed chemical tests (well, maybe back in College but I digress). I have, however, handled and used many of these items and have gained a little knowledge from focused experts. Though there are hand painted glasses out there it sounds like your a child of the 70's based on the Pepsi series mention. Hand decorating almost completely went away with the advent of machinery in the 1930's. Decorations on the vast majority of these latter types of character glasses are not only sealed but all of them have the decorations on the outside (this is true even for the hand painted variety). The glasses generally aren't even "painted" per. se.. The decorations are either screened on or applied with a "decal" (though the decals have a rubbery texture) that is rolled onto the glass. The decorations are then sealed and fired by various methods. Long story short I would say not only chase your childhood memories in the form of these glasses but use them as well. A last word of advice, I always hand wash my glasses and have never had to get rid of one due to the dulling of the decorations that WILL occur if put in the dish washer time after time. Thanks, Choose another question by subject Choose another question by Date Posted Shop at Funk & Junk Collectibles and Vintage Clothing
Subject: Doughnut 70's telephone The phone is Brown and has a flat bottom but both the base and hand set come together to form a circle with a hole in the center. The front of the hole area has a slight curve to it to give it a real stylized look. The rotary dial is visible in the bottom section of the phone when it is hung up. Though the phone has been used I would still call the condition very good or slightly better. I paid $75 for it. Thanks in advance for your help, Pricing varies very slightly by color. Yours color is not as sought after as the Yellow version for instance mostly because the color is more indicative of the 70's era. Still, the sheer style of the phone keeps all of the value up there and in VG working condition your phone sells in shops for around $125. They are increasingly hard to find and you got yours for a more than a fair price. Thanks, Choose another question by subject Choose another question by Date Posted Shop at Funk & Junk Collectibles and Vintage Clothing
Subject: Swizzle sticks, collectible or trash? Thank you, Some collectors may want swizzle sticks from all of the states, others may want only figural logo advertising on the ends and still others may want sticks from old Tiki bars. The collecting possibilities are fairly endless. Values for these sticks is still affordable and most sell in the $1-$5 range. There are exceptions. Often times you can find large lots of mixed sticks for cheap. On the other hand there are swizzle sticks that can sell for $10 each which is, generally, the top price level for single sticks. Full sets can add a small premium to the individual swizzle sticks total price. How much space could they possibly be taking up? Best of all they're super cool to pull out at parties, I'd keep them but given my collecting "illness" I may not be the best person to ask when your weeding things out! Thanks, Choose another question by subject Choose another question by Date Posted Shop at Funk & Junk Collectibles and Vintage Clothing
Subject: Nixon $3 bill mug Brewster from Australia It's true, these mugs were indeed rounded up and destroyed making the existing supply limited. I have one but I've only seen one other in recent years. With supply limitations often times come additional value and this mug is no exception. If it were just a plain good image Nixon mug you would expect to see it selling in the $25-30+ range. This mug in mint condition would sell for $45-60. G'day Choose another question by subject Choose another question by Date Posted Shop at Funk & Junk Collectibles and Vintage Clothing
Subject: Removing price sticker residue from collectible packaging Paul Pretty much the rule of thumb with such removals is based on personal trial and error. I can, however, give you some pointers that have worked well for me. I should point out though that even these methods do not work for me every time and can make things slightly worse if your not careful. Some, but not all, collectors find this residue or even an original price tag as a detriment to value so you have to make the initial decision yourself whether or not it is worth it to try and clean up packaging. Modern boxes and hanger cards are usually the easiest to deal with as they are of heavy stock with slick/shiny coating. In your case you may be lucky since most software packaging is of this nature. For these slick cover packages a little bit of standard lighter fluid works very well. I generally do not spray it directly on the package though I know some collectors who do. I put a little on my fingers and gently rub it into the residue until it starts to break up. I then use another just slightly damp cloth (try not to use a napkin of cloth with a lot of lint as this may stick and make things harder) and wipe away what I've done so nothing has the potential to sink in. As with shampoo, rinse and repeat until the residue is gone. Keep in mind that you may still have a stain from very old residue or price stickers simply due to different exposure to natural light. The lighter fluid method will not work on porous (non-coated) cardboard packaging and any liquid applied will cause damage. I have had no success at all coming up with a method to remove the residue on this type of packaging without causing worse damage. To me if there is an old price tag or sticker residue and it is easily removed you might as well since it is likely to improve appearance but I do not generally downgrade a collectible that has such items on them. Certainly the potential decrease in value to those who see these things as defects would be slight. Thanks, Choose another question by subject Choose another question by Date Posted Shop at Funk & Junk Collectibles and Vintage Clothing
Subject: Guide for pinback buttons Thanks, Most of these books are based on old values and, to the best of my knowledge, have not been updated. Still, with a little research on current values of a handful of your pins your certainly going to be able to use the relative values to determine values in your set with a reasonable certainty. Some of these books may be hard to find or out of print though I think the largest of them, "Price Guide to Collectible Pin-Back Buttons 1896-1986" , is still available and probably the most suited to your inquiry. Hake has also done a number of volumes specifically on political pinbacks as well. One book that is current and a fantastic reference guide for all character toys and related items is "Hake's Price Guide to Character Toys" which was recently updated and should be available in any fair sized/well stocked book chain in your area. This guide is one of the most extensive on character toys to date and I never miss a volume (I think this is the fifth). Your comic pins are usually just referred to as "Pep" pins, even though other pins were produced for Pep, and most/all of these should be in the Character Toys book. Shame on me, I haven't got the latest edition yet but a quick check in the fourth edition shows a listing. The nose art pins wont be but you will probably find them in the "..Collectible Pin-back.." book. Sorry but I have misplaced my copy of the latter so I can't say for certain. I should mention that Pep did produce a set of military insignia pins (36 total by the way) which, if your mistaken about the identification, are actually listed in "..Character Toys" as well. Regardless of which book has the information your currently looking for suffice to say that if your into collecting pinback buttons you should have both of these books on your shelf. If you simply want to know about these sets I can help there too. According to your brief information, you have a complete set of the Pep comic pins. A full set in excellent or better condition is valued in the $1500-2000 (+ since full sets in good condition rarely surface) range. Again, I suspect that you also have the complete set of "insignia" pins, a full set in excellent or better condition would sell for $550-650+ Thanks, Choose another question by subject Choose another question by Date Posted Shop at Funk & Junk Collectibles and Vintage Clothing
Subject: Another how to sell question or "Don't let your collecting family members put you in their will!" I now own boxes upon boxes of McDonalds stuff but not the typical Happy Meal toys, rather paper packaging goods/publicity/employee items like ashtrays, aprons, styro boxes, bibs, tray liners, sugar packs etc. Unrelated to fast food, I have sets of trading cards (not just sports ones), old glass alleys, lovely cigar and hat boxes, pin badges, promotional giveaways (e.g. old spoons, key rings, change purses, shoe horns, letter openers, pens etc. from well known companies some now defunct etc.) Also lots "lifestyle" items from the 50's (like appliance manuals for dated appliances like "home sun lamps" and early televisions)thru 70's (e.g. psychedelia memorabilia), diecast cars, posters, dolls, board games, lottery tickets, Fuller Brush items, etc. Much but not all of this is of Canadian origin. Then there's all the magazines, books, records, stamps, coins, etc. The collections belonged to my late dad and any proceeds would go to supporting my disabled mother's care. Questions: I lack both time and desire to be a full time dealer (I collect other things already) but would like to realize decent value without being taken advantage of. Would I be better to contact a "generalist" dealer rather than many specialized ones? If so, how much product can they generally absorb, how much time will they put into looking through sorted stock (i.e. rather than offering a "flat price") and do they ever do house calls (it's a LOT of stuff to transport or scan for photos!) Also, any suggestions on how to (locally)find reputable dealers (general or specialist) to fit? Finally, I am presently sorting and trying to categorize this massive stock but am feeling somewhat overwhelmed. How should I sort items so as to be most attractive to dealers, i.e. by manufacturer, time period, theme, item etc. For example, for a N-M collectible 1949 postcard of the Shell Oil Tower at our Canadian National Exhibition - should this go with unrelated collectible postcards? other Shell or various oil company promo items? or collectibles relating to the time period (immediately-post WWII consumerism)or with other Worlds' Fairs collectibles? Your advice would be much, much appreciated!!! So sorry to ramble but have edited this twice and not sure how to put this in fewer words. Thanks again First let me preface this by saying that not all of the items you've mentioned are generally accepted as Collectibles and, therefore, are unlikely to be of interest to most people and almost all dealers. Example that jumps out at me is the home sun lamp so just be prepared for some items being passed over all together. However, most of what you have listed are probably of interest at some level. You have mentioned the years on some items but not others and this will be critical. For example, the value of the fast food stuff from McDonalds itself will hinge greatly on the decade it was produced. For the packaging all but the earliest stuff will probably not be of interest....yet. If you have the "Speedy" Mcdonalds logo on items they are going to be the hottest. If time is of the essence and you seem to indicate that it is, a generalized Collectibles dealer is probably your best bet. I should say that finding such a dealer these days is still fairly difficult since it is very much still a new field unto itself and hasn't fully broken away from the Antiques market. The business of Collectibles is seeing its biggest growth yet but starting a business today takes patience and the ability to grow the market in the dealers particular area. It's easier in a big city than in the country areas to this may effect your potential audience depending on where your located. So let's say you do find that elusive generalized Collectibles dealer, then what? What I always suggest to sellers such as yourself is to set a price . This can be either by the piece of for the lot or, most efficiently, for both depending on how you want to do it. After all, in this instance YOU are the dealer and as you are selling items you should set the price (which doesn't mean that's what you'll get but it is a starting point for discussion). Keep in mind, however, that when you offer individually you will get some cherry pickers who will strip all of your top shelf stuff which will make the remainder harder to sell in total. Most experienced dealers are better able to start with your expectations and work from there. It saves time with individual evaluation of every item which would be more necessary if they had to determine a price since they essentially have to determine a retail price right there and work backwards. If your expectations are reasonable then often times dealers can take a much more brief eyeball of the merchandise and rough out some numbers in their heads. I realize that this means potentially more work for you that may involve some research of items that may/may not have particular value but you simply can't avoid all of the work if you want to get your best value out of the collections. Even if you were to field offers from dealers willing to do so you would have to have some idea of your expectations to even react properly to offers so why not think it through right from the start? Each dealer has his/her level of merchandise before they decide that a housecall is worthwhile. Along the same lines each dealer determines how much stuff they can handle and what types of items they want to deal in. In your case this is why a general Collectibles dealer is probably a good start since they are likely to want more in total than anyone else. Dealers too have different purchase ideologies and they do vary somewhat. A general rule of thumb is to expect anywhere from 20-50% of RETAIL price for your items. 25% is a highly acceptable norm and what you can generally expect for many items. 50% is rarely seen save for the hottest of items. Consignment rates are generally at or near 50% so this, too, is an option and the reason that a buy rate of 50% is hard to obtain. This buy rate of 20-50% makes sense when you realize that the dealer could assume no risk and consign the item. With an outright sale, you walk away with your end of the deal, the dealer still has to market and sell the item(s). All of these numbers are generalize rules of thumb and will vary by dealer and locality. Please take the time to read my article on selling for further clarification and some potential other options for you. Finding a reputable dealer is really only going to be accomplished by word of mouth so I can't be of much help there. In terms of separating your items into some sort of categories you have to first make the decision we've discussed and decide how much time your willing to put into selling these items for maximum profit. Selling to specialized dealers usually, but not always, will get you the best price since they have buyers lined up for items within the category you may break things down to (e.g. World war II items, Vintage Clothing, etc.). but this means you have to find more dealers for your stuff and this, you guessed it!, takes time. I've given you food for thought more than the concrete answers you might have been looking for simply because it is not that cut and dry. If I had you sitting in front of me we could probably hash it out better because we could go back and forth with all of the points I've mentioned. Your expectations, time consideration, locality and experience with Collectibles and Antiques all play equally critical roles in determining how you are going to proceed. If all of this sounds a little to scary for you, you could also opt to set up one of more times either at a Collectibles/Antique show or local flea market and try to sell your items this way. Still some work involved price wise but you simply can't avoid this. NOW who's the one rambling!! Good luck, Choose another question by subject Choose another question by Date Posted Shop at Funk & Junk Collectibles and Vintage Clothing
Subject: Charlie Brown "Pocket doll" He is 7 1/2 inches tall has Red/black zag shirt and black shorts with a removable cap. Bottom of right shoe is written "United Feature Syndicate Inc. 1966, Made in Hong Kong." which this is also written in his back. He has movable arms and legs. His head and arms are made of Rubber and his body and legs are plastic. He is in very good condition with slight fading on cap. Thank you for your response, These dolls are very popular for their early character look and poseability / displayability. The cap on your Charlie is a nice bonus as they are frequently lost. In very good condition Charlie Brown sells for $50-55. Other characters differ in value with some of the harder to find ones in the set selling for a little more (e.g. Schroeder). Thanks, Choose another question by subject Choose another question by Date Posted Shop at Funk & Junk Collectibles and Vintage Clothing
Subject: Beatles pasted over "Butcher" Yesterday and Today stereo record The record is a black vinyl with multicolored rim, slight to none ring wear, superficial surface scratches and some smudging. Plays great with some crackles between tracks. No dust cover. The jacket obviously has a paste over cover, minor edge wear mostly at the corners, about a 3" seam split on the lower right side, some minor surface wear and someone wrote 25 cents on the front. It appears someone pulled up the lower left corner up a bit to apparently see what was under the label. Thanks, What you have is the 1966 stereo release that in its current state would be called a "paste over" "Butcher Cover". The reason the decal is pulled from the corner is that many people try to get the decal off to show the original cover below as this cover is so much more valuable. The cover below shows the boys dressed in White butcher smocks in a scene with beheaded, bloody, dolls strewn about, hence the name. This original release was quickly pulled from the then conservative market. Original Butcher covers sell for more than many people make in a year. The "peeled" or "paste over" covers with the Beatles "Trunk" cover sell for significantly less but are very valuable never the less. The problem is that I'm not aware of any tried and true method of successfully removing the pasted over cover and neither are most other people. Because of this lack of expertise the values of these albums that are either peeled or have had attempts at peeling vary widely. The fact is that unless the peel is undetectable the general consensus is that you should leave paste overs alone and the value for a paste over versus an obvious peeled copy is higher. Record grading is tricky and opinions can easily vary from one person to another as to what is very good, near mint, etc.. Despite the significant details you've provided, it is probably better for me to supply you with a range of values and let you take it from there based on all the defects. The writing on the front of the jacket is a significant defect and will greatly effect value with an album at this price level so keep that in mind. Paste over Butcher covers can range from $400-600 in very good condition to $2000+ in near mint or better condition. Sealed copies can often triple the the near mint value. I believe your copy will grade significantly below the very good lower value due to the defects you've mentioned. Hope we see you again soon, Choose another question by subject Choose another question by Date Posted Shop at Funk & Junk Collectibles and Vintage Clothing
Subject: Monkey with banana, "Zip"py or not? I have an old stuffed monkey that was given to me on my first birthday in 1975. His body is made to look as though he is wearing black pants and a long sleeve yellow shirt. He has a rubber face, hands and shoes and is holding a banana. I have been trying to find out who he is and noticed that he is very similar to Zip Monkey. The only differences are the banana isn't peeled and his shirt is long, not short sleeved. Is he Zip, or something else? A number of different companies manufactured these rubber face monkeys with bananas in hand during the 50's and 60's/early 70's and the theme in general was very popular. Still is. I have heard some people call the monkey you refer to with the long sleeves and peeled banana Mr. Bim but I have never seen confirmation of this anywhere though it may help you with further research. No other name is attributed to your version save for those given to them by their loving owners to the best of my knowledge. Unfortunately, most labels, when they survive, are very vague as to the company name and usually only mention the state they were manufactured in. I've seen Ohio and Massachusetts mentioned and I have one, though the banana is peeled with no sleeves, and it is marked "Household Merchandising" out of Ohio so this is likely one of the unidentified companies I've run across. It' all pretty confusing huh? Of course you don't care about the value and it's worth more to you than anyone else might pay you but these dolls in good condition generally sell in the $50 range. Often it is these tidbits of information that eventually help to resolve questions like these but more often than not it is nearly impossible to track down a confirmed answer since much or all of the history of these mass produced items is long since gone. Hope I helped at least a little, Choose another question by subject Choose another question by Date Posted Shop at Funk & Junk Collectibles and Vintage Clothing
Subject: Coca Cola (Coke) figural bottle lighter We have a small, 2 1/2" high, coke-cola bottle, that is a cigarette. lighter. It pulls apart to find the striker and brass inner works. There is no date on bottle only has the name Coca Cola and trade mark register with small metal cap and fake coke in bottle, or something to resemble coke. It's never been used, could this be worth anything? Thanks for your time, Your lighter was produced in the 1950's and is fairly common, though popular. Don't worry, there's no real Coke in it, just colored plastic. In working mint condition your lighter usually sells in the $50-60 range. Thanks, Choose another question by subject Choose another question by Date Posted Shop at Funk & Junk Collectibles and Vintage Clothing
Subject: Elsie the Cow (Borden) Lamp Any ideas? Thanks!, Judging by the picture, however, it looks like it is in excellent condition. If all you have is some crazing in the finish (which you call cracks) that's pretty acceptable but you'll have to judge for yourself. If they are indeed true cracks then this will lower the value depending on the severity of the cracks. In Excellent condition your lamp would have a value in the $175-$185 range. Thanks, Choose another question by subject Choose another question by Date Posted Shop at Funk & Junk Collectibles and Vintage Clothing
Subject: Elsie the Cow (Borden) stuffed doll with rubber head It is made of blue fur with black cloth feet(4)and has a plastic head. I am curious as to the value of the toy. Sorry, I don't have a picture. It is in excellent condition. In excellent condition your Elsie would sell for $75-$85. Thanks, Choose another question by subject Choose another question by Date Posted Shop at Funk & Junk Collectibles and Vintage Clothing
Question:After growing up with TONS of the Pepsi character glasses, I have decided to purchase many on ebay and re live my childhood with my kids.
Chris
Answer:Hi Chris,
Interesting question and spawned no doubt from other exaggerated tales such as that of radioactivity in old dishes (usually Fiesta).
Elle
Question:Hi Elle!,
I just bought a really cool looking telephone and I'm curious as to when it was made and how much it's worth.
Christopher
Answer:Hi Christopher!,
You just bought a 1970's classic! This phone is normally referred to as a "Doughnut" phone, for obvious reasons.
Elle
Question:I acquired a collection (1000+) of Swizzle sticks. They advertise everything from Liquor products, Hotels, Casinos, Airlines, Ships, and some of them are from Airlines and Hotels etc. that no longer exist. Are these really a collectors item, or should I just use them for landfill? If they are collectable, where would I go to get rid of them, and what is the going rate (approx)?
Phillip
Answer:Hi Phillip,
These days I would be hesitant to say almost anything isn't collected by someone. The case with swizzle sticks, however, is already well established including collectors groups and clubs. They are still very much an affordable collectible and appeal to the various collectors for a variety of reasons.
Elle
Question:I have a White Coffee Mug printed with a US three dollar note bearing a picture of Richard Nixon. Mug is 7.5 cm diameter and 9 cm high in original condition. I once heard they were confiscated and destroyed because it is illegal to reproduce US dollar notes in any form. I would like to know what the value of the mug is today.
Answer:Hi Brewster!,
What I want to know is what your doing with a Nixon mug in Australia? I thought only Americans understood the cheesy appeal of Nixon.
Elle
Question:I collect software, almost all of which comes in cardboard boxes. What's the best way to remove the price tag residue without damaging the box?
Answer:Hi Paul,
Your question is a very good one but one that I have to be careful answering.
Elle
Question:How can I find a listing of the 86 Kellogg comic character pins and the 36 nose art pins? Also I would like to be able to find the values of the various pins. I ate lots of Pep cereal as a kid trying to collect them and now I am trying to add to my collection.
Tim
Answer:Hi Tim,
There are just a handful of books that go into any decent detail on a wide variety of pinback buttons. They are all written by Ted Hake, a pioneer in the Collectibles business.
Elle
Question:I am the recent heir to a large, poorly organized and very eclectic series of collections and collectibles.
Jan
Answer:Hi Jan!,
First, don't apologize for the rambling. On the contrary, your one of the few that has provided at least some substance not only for me to work with but also to make for an interesting question to post. I'm more than a little tired of single line questions with no details at all which, by the way, get canned since I don't have enough information to make a proper evaluation. Too many details are better than too little and I do expect just a little effort. After all, the price is right!
Elle
Question:Dear Elle,
I would like to know the value of a Charlie Brown figurine/doll I have come across in father-in-laws storage.
Gina
Answer:Hi Gina,
What you have is one of a number of Peanuts dolls from the "Pocket Doll" series by Eoucher Associates. For once this date of 1966 is accurate but don't let that lull you into believing all the dates on Peanuts merchandise. Very few Peanuts items show the actual date of manufacture but show, instead, the copyright dates for the Peanuts characters. Other dolls in this series include Snoopy, Lucy, Schroeder and Linus.
Elle
Question:Hi Elle,
This is my first time on your site but it looks great. I have a question concerning an album I have on the Beatles, "Yesterday and Today", Capitol Records, # ST2553. What can you tell me about this album and possibly the value.
Betty
Answer:Hi Betty!,
Thanks for the nice comments on the site.
Elle
Question:Hi Elle!
Teepit
Answer:Hi Teepit!,
Unfortunately, he's someone else. Zips sell for big bucks these days and their generic counterparts only get a fraction of what a good Zip sells for.
Elle
Question:Hi Elle,
Just found your site, great job.
Sharon
Answer:Hi Sharon!,
I don't think there is anything "Coke" that's doesn't have value. Of course it is the older items that have the highest values.
Elle
Question:Hi there,
I found what I think is an Elsie the Cow lamp although I don't know for sure. The part where the bulb screws in seems fairly new and there is a crack in the glaze on the back that can't be seen on the inside of the piece as well as other surface cracks on each of the four corners. I saw this same lamp in an antique shop selling for $375 but found that hard to believe.![[Elsie the Cow lamp]](../ellespage/ellepicts/elsielamp.jpg)
Click for larger picture
Dancer
Answer:Hi Dancer,
You did indeed find an Elsie lamp which was manufactured for retail sale (versus a premium offering) in 1947. The value of the lamp in the antique shop sounds like it is on the high side since I would price a mint condition lamp in the $275 top range. You also mention a few flaws in your lamp but no overall condition.
Elle
Question:I have a Elsie the Cow stuffed toy that my mother had. It has a tag that says "My Toy Creation". It's approximately 12 high. It will moo when turned upside down.
Larry
Answer:Hi Larry,
I'm only aware of a stuffed Elsie doll with a rubber head but since everything else appears to be the same I'm just going to assume that you misspoke when you called the head plastic.
Elle
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